Shoe



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7V $644 www@ A. MADSON SHOE Filed July 15. 1920- May 1, 1934.

Patented May l, -1934 SHOE Amos Madson, Pontiac, assignments, to Doublporation of Delaware Application July 15, 1

9 Claims.

This invention relates to shoes and more par cularly to the constructionof the same by securing together the upper and the sole or bottom. Oneof the objects of this invention is to provide a shoe in which the upperis secured to the sole or bottom in such a manner as to provide a shoeof great strength adapted to keep its shape and which is comfortable tothe foot.

Another object is to provide a shoe in which the seam securing the upperto the sole or bottom is arranged in such a manner as to-be covered inorder to present a neat appearance and a smooth inner foot-supportingsurface.

Another object is to provide a shoe in which the upper is secured to thesole or bottom at the iorepart and heel in such a manner as to securemaximum strength'while maintaining a neat appearance.

Another object is ing shoes which wi to provide methods of makllaccomplish the above objects so as to cheapen the manufacture and permitready repair thereof.

Further objects will appear from the detail description taken inconnection with the accom-4 panying drawing, in which:

Figure 1 is a detail section through the forepart of a shoe illustratinga stitch-down shoe embodying this invention;

Figure 2 is a. view similar to Figure 1, but illustrating another formof shoe employing a Welt and embodying this invention;

Figure 3 is a view of the bottom of the heel seat' before application ofthe lift and outsole;

Figure 4 is a side elevation of Figure 3 but showing part in section;4A

Figure 5 is a view similar to Figure 3 but showing the outsole and liftin place, part of the lift being broken away;

Figure 6 is a side elevation of Figure 5 and showing the heel in place;

Figure 7 is a cross sectional view taken along line A-A of Figure 5 andshowing the lift-in place; and

Figure 8 is a sectional view taken along line `B-li of Figure 5 andshowing the heel in place with the parts in the p heel is subjected tothe usual pounding operation.

Generally stated and in accordance with this invention, the shoecomprises an insole which has a heel portion of reduced width providinga marginal recess along the heel and which has a marginal extension ofreduced thickness along the repart providing a shoulder therealong. An'pper is lasted and seamed against this shoulder along the forepart,while the heel part osition assumed after the Ill., assignor, by mesne eStitch Welt Shoe Corl 920, Serial No. 396,607

of the upper is lasted inwardly into and co-extensive with the marginalrecess and secured in such lasted position; an outsole is also securedto this insole In this specification and the claims the term forepart isused in the sense of including the shank, as well as the ball and toe ofthe sole, that is the entire position forwardly of the heel breast. Inaccordance with an embodiment of this invention a welt is laid along themarginal extension along the forepart and the outsole is seamed to thewelt and the marginal extension; this welt may either connecting theupper, with the insole prefer- The inseam and the welt if employed, ablylies within a channel in the outside face of the insole so that theinseam will lie within the 80 insole in order to leave the outside faceof the" insole flat, and the outsole lies against this at face of theinsole. While the heel portion of reduced width provides a marginalrecess along the heel into which the upper is lasted at the heel seat,the outsole may also be marginally reduced at' the heel so as to providea similar marginal recess along the heel into which the upper may belasted and secured in lasted position. A lift is generally provided atthe heel connecting with the ends of the marginal extension on theinsole; Where a welt is employed this lift also connects with the endsof the welt, and where the outsole lift also connects with Xtension onthe outsole. rts to be connected may may run into this lift so Both thelift and the pa be beveled and the seam as toform a neat joint. v

Referring to Figure 1, 1 designates an insole which is slit or channeledat its edge to provide lip 2 and a marginal extension or to provide ashoulder 4 at the junctions of t-he lip and extension. This insole isalso provided on its outside face with a channel 5 for receiving theinseam which lies within the insole so as to leave the outside face ofthe insole flat. rIhe upper 6 and the lining '7 are sethe shoulder 4 bya seam 8 passing through the upper and lining inwardly and downwardlythrough'the insole and in the channel 5. 110

The outer edge or margin of the upper is turned out over the marginalextension along the entire forepart as shown at 9 and on this out-turnededge may be placed a welt l0. The outsole 1l Yis secured to the shoe bya seam V12 passing through the welt, upper, marginal extension andoutsole.

In practice the upper (including the lining) is laste-:l over the insolein any suitable manner and secured against the shoulderY 4 by the inseam8, the channel lip being turned at this time as is usual intheapplication of inseams. This channels then cemented. down and themarginal edge of the upper is turned over the marginal extension andcemented down, the lining being trimmed shorter than the out-turned partof the upper. The outsole is later applied to the insole and secured bythe seam 12 at the same time that the welt is applied which may beaccomplished byY any suitable machine. It will be noted that theupstanding lip 2 is beveled so as to lie against the lining and in factreally merges therewith.

In the embodiment shown in Figure 2, the upstanding lip 2 is omitted andthe shoulder 4 is undercut so as to provide a marginal groove extendingaround the sole. A welt l0, in this case, is secured at its upper edgeby the inseam 8 which also secures the upper and the lining to thevinsole,.the outer edge of the welt being turned up during such inseamingoperation 'as shown in dotted lines,Y Figure 2. `The welt is laterturned over the marginal extension 3 Yand secured with the latter to theoutsole by the seam l2.

It will, therefore, be seen that in the embodiments Figures l and Y2,there are provided strong seams between the upper and insole, while theinsole'itself as well as the upper and lining are partly attachedthereto or securelyffastened by the outseam to the outsole. 'f Thisavoids the objectionable Yspace between the outsole and insole usuallypresent in welt shoes and, therefore,.pro vides a shoe which will keepits shape. side of the shoe is entirely smooth and free from all seamswhatsoever thereby having the advantage of the welt shoe as to smoothinterior and shapeliness and of the McKay shoe as to strength of seam.

Referring to Figures 5 and 8 which show the heel seat construction,while as previously describedY the upper along the forepart is securedagainst an outside shoulder along the marginal extension, and, as shownin Figure 1, with the upper turned outwardly; and, as shown in Figure 2,with the welt lying along the marginal extension; at the heel partthefupper, including its lining and the counter, where employed, arelastedinwardly into and co-extensive with the marginal recess at theheel. As particularly shown in Figures 3 and 4, theheel portion 50.ofreduced Width, and providing a marginal recess 34 therealong andshoulders 35 at the breast, has the lining and also the counter 38,where employed, lasted inwardly ,and secured in lasted position as bytacks 39. Where the outsole is also marginally reduced at the heel partso as to provide shoulders 36, similar to the shoulders 35 on theinsole, the upper 6 may be lasted inwardly .over the marginally reducedpart 51 and secured by tacks 40. A lift 41 may then be placed over theheel seat and secured by tacks 42. The lift is beveled, as shown at 37,with a corresponding bevel or bevels on the Welt, upper, insole andoutsole at the shoulders 35 and 36 and the seam l2 connecting the layersof material along the forepart is extended into the lift at 43. It willbe The inunderstood, oi course, that the parts 50 and 51 may be reducedin thickness. The heel is shown at 44. i

Figure 8 is sectional view illustrating the layers of material in adistinctive manner and with the thicknesses of the layers substantiai inorder to show their relation. In the position shown in this iigure, theparts have already been subjected to the usual pounding operationfamililiar to those in the art, by which the various layers are causedto conform to one another.

The procedure in making the shoe may be performed by the usual machineryasgnow employed in shoe factories. Y,In the specific shoe shown theprocedure may be as followsz-The upper and lining are cut and stitchedas usual and the soles died out in any suitable manner. The insole Yisslitor channeled and the lip 2, where employed,

turned up, while the reduced ends of the sole then placed on the lastand theupper (including the lining where employed) is lasted against theshoulder 4 along the forepart and seamed to the insole and against theshoulder. Where a welt is employed as in Figure 2, it is seamed to thesole during'the inseamingpperation and the upper and lining are turnedas shown. The lining and counter are lasted over the heel seat andsecured as shown in Figures 3. and 4.77The outsole is laid and where theupper is lasted over a marginally reduced part of the outsole it canbesecured as shown in Figures 5 and 8. The lift can now be placed over Ythe heel seat and fitted to joinL the ends of the out-turned upper, theshoulders 35 on the insole and even the shoulder 36 on the outsole. Theout'sole can now be seamed to the insole; where the welt is as shown inFigure l, the welt is secured by the seam 12 as shown; where thewelt isas in Figure 2, it is turned down on the marginal extension and securedby the seam 12; in both Ycases the ends of the welt are fitted to thelift and the seam is run for short distances into the lift. The heel cannow be applied in any suitable manner.

It will, therefore, be seen that this invention accomplishes itsobjects. With the sole or soles formed as described, with the upperlasted along the fore-.part and at the heel part as described, a shoe isproduced which will not only'be neatY in appearance and strong, but inwhich the insole and outsole may be arranged so as to lie together whilethe inside of the shoe is left smooth and free of stitches or fasteningsexcept at the heel part. The construction at the breast is particularlystrong, as well as neat in that it not only avoids any objectionablehump or interruption, but also securely connects the parts so as -toform an integral structure having a neat appearance. The shoe may bereadily resoled since the outsole may be readily removed and replacedfor the reason that the upper isV not only connected tothe insole butthe connection at the heel seat can be so remade, if a complete soleisplaced in position, as to again secure the advantageous construction.

Although a number of embodiments of this invention have been shown anddescribed, it will be understood that this invention is susceptible ofother embodiments and that-various subcom binations and features are ofindividual utility without reference to other sub-combinations,combinations and features; it is, therefore, to be understood that suchsub-combinations and features within the scope of the appended claimsare contemplated.

Having thus described the invention, what is claimed is:

1. A shoe comprising, an insole having a heel portion oi reduced widthproviding a marginal recess along the heel and having a marginalextension of reduced thickness along the Iorepart providing a shoulder`therealong, an upper lasted and seamed against said shoulder along theforepart, the heel part of the upper being lasted inwardly into andcoextensive with said marginal recess and secured in such lastedposition, and an outsole secured to said insole.

2. A shoe comprising, an insole having a heel portion o1' reduced Widthproviding a marginal recess along the heel and having a marginalextension of reduced thickness along the forepart providing a shouldertherealong, an upper lasted and seamed against said shoulder along theforepart, the heel part of the upper being lasted inwardly into andcoextensive with said marginal recess and secured in such lastedposition, a lift at the heel connecting with the ends oi the marginalextension on the insole, and an outsole secured to saidy insole.

3. A shoe comprising, an insole having a heel portion of reduced widthproviding a marginal recess along the heel and having a marginal ex-.tension of reduced thickness along the i'orepart providing a shouldertherealong, an upper lasted and seamed against said shoulder along thetorepart, the heel part of the upper being lasted in- Wardly into andcoextensive with said marginal recess and secured in suchlastedposition, and an outsole seamed to and along the marginal extension onthe insole..

fi. A shoe comprising, an insole having a heel portion of reduced widthproviding a marginal recessalong the heel and having a marginalextension of reduced thickness along the i'orepart providing a shouldertherealong, an upper lasted and seamed against said shoulder along theforepart, the heel part oi the upper being lasted inwardly into andcoextensive with said marginal recess and secured in such lastedposition a welt along the upper and said marginal extension, and anoutsole seamed to said welt and said marginal extension.

5. A shoe comprising, an insole having a heel portion of reduced widthproviding a marginal recess along the heel and having a marginalextension of reduced thickness along the forepart providing a shouldertherealong, an upper lasted and seamed against said shoulder along theforepart, and an outsole secured to said insole and having a heelportion of reduced width providing a marginal recess along the heel, theheel part of the upper being lasted inwardly into and coextensive withsaid marginal recesses and secured in such lasted position.

6. A shoe comprising, an insole having a heel portion of reduced widthproviding a marginal and insole entirely along recess along the heel andchanneled along the Iorepart to provide a marginal extension oi' reducedthickness and an inside shoulder therealong adapted to leave the outsideface of the insole ilat, an upper lasted and seamed against saidshoulder along the forepart, the heel part of the upper being lastedinwardly into and coextensive with said marginal recess and secured insuch lasted position, an outsole lying against said insole, and a seampassing through said outsole and the marginal extension on said insole.

7. A shoe comprising, an insole having a heel portion of reduced widthproviding a marginal recess along the heel and channeled along theforepart to provide a marginal extension o1' reduced thickness and aninside shoulder therealong adapted to leave the outside face oi' theinsole ilat, an upper lasted and seamed against said shoulder alongtheforepart, the heel part oi' the upper being lasted inwardly into andcoextensive with said marginal recess and secured in such lastedposition, a welt overlying said extension, an outsole lying against saidinsole, and a seam passing through said outsole and the marginalextension on said insole and its overlying welt.

8. A shoe comprising, an insole having a heel portion of reduced widthproviding a marginal recess along the heel and channeled along theforepart to provide a marginal extension o1' reduced thickness and aninside shoulder therealong, an upper lasted against said shoulder andentirely along the forepart with its margin overlying said extension, aninseam passing through said upper said shoulder and lying within saidinsole adapted to leave the outside face of said insole flat, the heelpart of the upper being lasted inwardly into and coextensive with saidmarginal recess and secured in such lasted position, an outsole lyingagainst said insole, and a seam passing through said outsole and saidextension and its overlying upper margin.

9. A shoe comprising, an insole having a heel portion of reduced widthproviding a marginal recess along the'heel and channeled along theIorepart to provide a marginal extension of reduced thickness and aninside shoulder therealong, an upper lasted against said shoulder andentirely along the forepart with its margin overlying said extension, aninseam passing through said upper and insole entirely along saidshoulder and lying within said insole adapted to leave the outside faceof said insole iiat, the heel part or

